A WET WEEKEND IN WEYMOUTH

Welcome to the 'Naples of England', home of Aquatech and O'Three. Weymouth has been a port for hundreds of years and a major seaside resort since the 18th century.
George III made Weymouth fashionable, by claiming that bathing in the sea was a health cure for his nervous disorder. The area has another royal connection with Portland Castle, one of Henry VIII's finest coastal fortresses, later used by Oliver Cromwell as a jail. More recently in World War II, it was at the forefront of the massive preparations to recapture Northern Europe: D-Day. The impact of D-Day is still very much in evidence today, with two Mulberry harbours anchored in Portland Harbour, not far from Her Majesty's floating prison Weir (I kid you not). Chesil Beach also played its part in WWII, with Barnes Wallis conducting some of his bouncing bomb tests here. Nowadays, the Chesil area is considered to be a prime water sports location because of its sheltered waters and steady winds. Weymouth Bay and Portland Harbour (the largest man-made warm (?) water harbour in the world) - are a natural magnet for windsurfers, yachtsmen, dinghy sailors and, of course, scuba divers.
Since the days of the Romans, Portland Bill has been regarded as one of the major hazards to shipping on the south coast. Divers should be aware that the whole area is subject to complex and strong tidal streams and heavy overfalls. The combination of that, and the Dorset coast being a happy hunting ground for enemy submarines during both Wars, has ensured that this area is littered with an incredible number of tasty wrecks.
There have been several naval vessels named after Admiral Viscount Samuel Hood - he was a brilliant tactician who defeated the French at Dominica in 1783 and captured Toulon and Corsica - if you are interested the Maritime Museum at Greenwich has a full list. However, two particular Hoods instantly spring to mind. The ill fated Battlecruiser that sailed from Scapa Flow to hunt the Bismarck and blew up with 3 survivors, and the 14,000 ton Royal Sovereign class Battleship that was deliberately sunk, in the southern entrance of Portland Harbour, on 4 November 1914, with the aim of protecting shipping in the harbour from prowling submarines.
She arrived on the 18 metre sea bed completely upside down, with the result that her broad wide bottom can be as little as 2 metres from the surface at low water. Because of her depth, and the fact that the Hood is completely sheltered from most winds, including south westerly gales, she can be considered as an excellent back up plan, should all other diving get blown out. Additionally, long bottom times can be pulled, because she is such a shallow wreck.
Divers should note however, that because the Hood is located where she is, great care should be taken when diving her at certain times of the tide, especially on an ebb. The water movement can run like a train on, around and through her and divers happily bimbling along the outside of the wreck can suddenly find themselves inside the structure should they swim past a large opening.
That said, generations of divers have enjoyed her, either as a fun dive or have conducted part of their training on her. I have to admit that until this year I had never dived the Hood. This has all changed and I have now had the pleasure of diving her half a dozen times and each time has been completely different. She has great potential, whatever your experience.
The Hood is an excellent wreck for honing all diving skills, but especially wreck penetration techniques. This should however only be done by properly equipped and experienced divers, as the wreck is deteriorating and, in some places, rusting quite badly. She can be quite silty, so the diver should be prepared, and lay line. Gavin Newman discussed line laying techniques in the Winter edition (volume 1, edition 2) of 9-90 and this is a perfect place, with loads of belay points to get those reels out and try not to 'knit cardigans'.
The Hood is absolutely swarming with life, with the hull covered in some places by subtle shades of pink growth. Consequently it can look quite elegant with the kelp swaying in the current. Plump Dead Mens' Fingers and glorious Jewel Anemones abound, and there is plenty of fish life. Schools of Pollack, Tom Pot Blennies, Cuckoo Wrasse, and several Spider Crabs were all spotted.
Other key features such as bollards and companionways are still visible and rumour has it the engine room can still be penetrated. You certainly get an unusual view of the various fittings and fixtures as they are attached to the 'ceiling'. Just beware, because there is a potential for machinery to become dislodged and fall on you!
The words 'Weymouth' and 'Submarine' tend to instantly conjure the thought 'M2'. There is however another submarine well worth a mention and a dive, and this one's still got its periscopes too! The diesel/electric Swordfish or 'S' Class Submarines were the most numerous ever built, for the Royal Navy. Thirty two had been constructed by 1942. They were designed as a replacement for the obsolete H21-54 Class and proved exceedingly successful because of various key modifications. These included changing the location of the main fuel tanks, so that they were now within the pressure hull, thus avoiding problems with fuel leaks. Additionally an escape hatch in the forward and after compartments of the pressure hull were fitted, an innovation which saved many lives during the war. As the war progressed the original design continued to evolve, and three very distinct groups developed, each group having its own characteristics as a result of various modifications.
The Sidon was a Group III vessel launched sometime after 1943. At 66.1 metres she was the longest of the three groups and carried a crew of 48. She didn't exactly cover herself with glory, and her highly unspectacular career appeared to come to a close in Portland Harbour on the 15 June 1955 after a fatal explosion onboard killed 13 hands and she sank. One school of thought has suggested problems with the batteries provoked the fire. Later she had a reprieve, and was raised. The reprieve was short lived, for in 1957 the decision was made that 'the Sidon should be expended' and she sank again, intentionally this time since the Navy needed more ASDIC targets for sonar training. She currently sits at a depth of 34 metres and rises 8 metres off the seabed.
The Sidon is a smashing wreck, small enough to be enjoyed, but big enough to keep you interested, on one dive. Another joy is that it is easy to work out exactly where you are on the wreck. Nature is really beginning to get a hold, as the pressure hull is breaking up so she's incredibly pretty, with stacks of life, especially around the bow area. Most of the structure was covered in cheap 1970's orange shag pile carpet, or at least that was what it looked like! (Actually it is a colonial polyp called Tubularia species indivisa, common name Oaten Pipes Hydroid).
As I swam down the casing, the grey conning tower loomed up out of the gloom. It was transformed, when I flashed my torch down it, into a breathtaking, gorgeous carpet of colour. Flaming oranges, barbie pinks, emerald greens and blushing red Jewel Anemones covered it. Inside the con a large festive garland of stout white plumose anemones had festooned themselves over some of the mechanisms, their delicate plumes wafting gently in the current. Again, there is abundant fish life, some Spider Crabs and Tom Pot Blennies hiding in the crevices, whilst at the top of the con, a large school of Bib became quite curious, when I took out my D-SMB.
The con is quite an interesting structure, especially as the periscopes are still intact. I found it a great place for bagging off from, but beware of snagging - netting, monofilament, and ropes abound!
Finally, if you are thinking of diving Captain Ben Bryant's Safari, it is well worth checking this dive out beforehand since the Safari, as the name suggests, is also a Swordfish Class Group III vessel.
The second submarine to be constructed in the M Class was the M2, built in 1918 by Vickers. Originally the forward deck carried a 12 inch gun, however, in 1927 a decision was made, since she was such a big sub, to adapt her structure. It is a well known fact that submarines are deadly to shipping, and during World War 1 they definitely played their part to the full. With the potential of another war looming, it was judged that bigger submarines, carrying heavy armament and seaplanes, were the best way forward, with the result that the M2 underwent extensive modifications. The 12 inch gun was removed and she was adapted to carry a small seaplane in a watertight hangar, to provide reconnaissance data and improve the hunter/killer rate of the sub. Additionally her armament included a 3 inch disappearing gun, two Lewis guns and four torpedo tubes.
She was a magnificent 296 feet long, and carried a crew of 62; 7 officers, 53 hands and 2 RAF men. On 14 January 1932 the M2 arrived in Portland from her base in Portsmouth. She sailed under the experienced captainship of Lieut-Commander John Duncan de Mussenden Leathes, a Navy man of 23 years and captain of the M2 since November 1930. The M2 was accompanied by two other submarines - L69 and L71, the idea being that after some shore leave, she would sail on 26 January to run exercises in West Bay. All was going well, a message was received by the flagship Titania at 10:08, and then nothing.
An hour later, there was panic in the fleet, and all available men at Portland were recalled to their ships. Fifteen vessels including the destroyers Salmon, Torrid, Thruster and Rowena joined in the hunt. Three seaplanes, along with minesweepers and other submarines, were also drafted in but tragically to no avail.
The searchers knew that the M2 crew would know how to conserve their energy and wait, there was enough oxygen for 48 hours, so there was a little time in hand. Tragically underwater detection was not so advanced then and with the bay littered with more than 200 wrecks, the M2 was not found.
The search went on and on. On 29 January the Admiralty announced that 'all hope has gone', and still the search continued. Seven days later, on 3 February, the M2 was finally discovered 6 miles off Portland Bill. She had been flooded from bow to stern. Salvage divers upon surfacing reported that the hangar doors and the conning tower hatch were open, with two bodies trapped beneath. They were not disturbed. The seaplane was still in situ and was later salvaged using lifting wires and taken to Portland by an Admiralty Tug on the 9 February. An attempt was also made to salvage the M2, but just as she was about to hit surface, it was aborted due to a combination of bad weather and the weight of the sub. Because the M2 went down between the wars, she is not technically a war grave. However, all divers should show due respect to her, she is a grave and should be treated as such. Do not touch or remove anything from the wreck!
I first dived her in 1993 and she hasn't changed at all. My initial reaction then was that there was not much life on the wreck and the same holds today. If you are after a 'pretty dive' the Sidon has much more to offer. The M2's hull is covered in plenty of chubby Dead Mens' Fingers, some monofilament, and not much else. In fact if it wasn't for these, and the pressure hull beginning to break up, you would still think she was an operational submarine and was just resting on the seabed.
The hangar is easy to identify, but beware. This gets awfully silty and divers have been fatally lost for not running lines inside. Over the hangar mouth the jib of the winch can be spotted. It was used to lift the seaplane back onto the launching ramp. Jewel anemones are beginning to take a hold on the con and there is some fish life - the usual Tom Pot Blenny, and a large school of Cod.
Early on the morning of 3 November 1979 the Aeolian Sky, a 14,000 ton Greek freighter, was steaming south west of the Isle of Wight, bound for Aden. At 04:55 a mid channel collision occurred with the 2,400 ton MV Anna Knupel, which managed to escape virtually unscathed. The Aeolian Sky was not so lucky and radioed for assistance, reporting that she was holed in the forward number one hold and taking water. Shortly afterwards another message was sent saying that the second bulkhead had given way, and that number one and two holds were full of water with the remainder of the ship open to the sea. It soon became apparent that she would have to be abandoned and so the crew were airlifted off. Twenty four miles later, after drifting unmanned in mid channel, it was decided that the Master and two crew should be airlifted aboard again, to see what could be done to rectify the situation. She was successfully taken under tow and after four hours, land was sighted. However the Sky was sinking at the bows and because her draught was considered too deep to safely enter Portsmouth or Southampton harbour, she was refused refuge. A decision was made to head towards Portland, but at 4:05am she sank 5 miles from St Aldhelm's Head.
And so the myth was born. For the Sky was carrying quite a mixed cargo: vehicles, perfumes, and sweets to name but a few goodies, and one should not overlook approximately £4,000,000 worth of Seychelles Rupees reportedly stashed in the Sickbay. What a surprise when, a few weeks later, it was announced that divers acting for the Crown Agents, who were responsible for the money, had secretly dived the wreck searching the Sickbay for the money, to find it was missing! The Seychelles Government was not amused and cancelled the complete note issue.
Then, to add insult to injury, canisters of deadly chemicals began to be washed up in the area. BSAC banned diving and taking of fish life between Bembridge Ledges and Portland, local fishermen were prohibited from trawling within one mile of the wreck and hundreds of dead crabs were washed up. Weymouth began to fear that the coming season would prove disastrous and questions were asked in the House of Commons. Things were looking bleak for the resort.
Eventually it was established that the deadly chemicals hadn't after all come from the Sky, but had been washed off the deck of another ship in mid channel. The diving ban was lifted, summer arrived, and suddenly everyone wanted to dive the Sky.
Divers should be aware that she has been fished, so there are tangles of monofilament and ropes. The Sky is also affected by tides that can run like a train and some weird currents and irregular water movements similar to a washing machine. A friend of mine was subjected to a most peculiar ascent two days after I had dived her.
She is, however, a most mouth-watering wreck and one does get that feeling of 'Where do I start?' - she is so huge. We landed by the bridge structure and I was immediately struck by the number of cargo derricks that were casually strewn around the deck, like so many jackstraws. Further on huge pulley blocks that had snapped off during the sinking lay scattered amongst other debris. Rumour has it that there are several Landrovers on the wreck. I didn't actually get to see any though I did spot one ex-vehicle. Quite an odd sight, 4 tyres with an engine block in the middle, and nothing else. Again, lots of orange shag pile carpet, and more stunning Jewel Anemones (I like Jewel Anemones). There was also a profusion of small flower like anemones that looked just like camomile or large daisies, which splashed colour over the hulk (Devonshire Cup Coral).
The Sky is such an enormous wreck with so much to see, that one dive is definitely not enough. She currently lies at 30 metres, so good bottom time can be achieved. Personally I can't wait to dive her again.
The SS Salsette, a 5,800 ton liner was custom-built for the fast run between Britain and India. She was a beautiful steamship with many outstanding features, the pride of the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Ship Company whose flagship she was. Additionally, much to P&O's joy, she had also held the Blue Riband for the fastest Atlantic crossing. The steamship was enroute from London to Bombay on 30 July 1917 when she was torpedoed on the starboard side.
Today, she is considered by many divers to be the finest wreck in the area, lying complete on her port side in 46-48 metres on a seabed of shingle and standing 15 metres proud. She can be quite a silty wreck, so lines have been run from the stern into the cabin area. Other things to look out for include davits, a gun mounted on her stern and a mere 600 portholes. And in the unlikely event that you get bored with counting portholes, you can always go scalloping - the seabed is alive with them!

The Author dived with the Breakwater Dive Centre and gratefully acknowledges the assistance provided by Budgie, Lisa and the staff. (Telephone 01305 860 269) Additionally she wishes to thank the following for their help with this article: Jason Bulley and Mark Silk - Slippery When Wet (photography) Ian Fuller - Old Harbour Dive School (archive material) Jim Kellett - 3D Diving (photography) John Ray - Aquatech (archive material)

By Rosemary Lunn.