The
northeast coast of England is an area
full of contradicting landscapes. Miles
of rugged, attractive and unspoilt scenery
are only a stones throw away from large
thriving cities that grew up as the
North Sea played a vital role in Britain’s
economic and political growth.
Long
recognised as being the hub of the Industrial
Revolution, the likes of George Stephenson,
father of the railways; Sir Joseph Swan,
inventor of the light bulb and Sir Charles
Parson, inventor of the steam turbine,
all had roots here. In a modern context
it is one of Britain’s liveliest
regions for entertainment, events and
the arts.
Of
all sights in Newcastle, the most impressive
view is that of the six bridges that
cross the Tyne, the most famous - the
Tyne Bridge being built between 1925
and 1928. Measuring half a mile in length
it was the world’s largest span
bridge until its design, was replicated
in Sydney, Australia in 1932. The area
has also been key to Britain’s
maritime trade with both ship-building
and freight playing a major role in
the regions development. This was recognised
during both World Wars as both U-boats
(WW1) and the Luftwaffe (WW2) singled
the east coast ports and the Tyne are
in particular for “special attention”.
Numerous
wrecks abound of this coastline, the
result of action of both war and peace.
Even after several visits the diving
remains as varied and captivating as
ever and far from exhausted. They are
unquestionably among the most interesting
to be found in UK waters.
Diving
from Tynemouth is best achieved using
an RIB and launching by four-wheel drive
from one of the designated sandy beaches.
Good teamwork keeps the trailer rolling
and then it is a simple case of parking
the vehicle before venturing out to
sea. Another beauty of the diving in
this area is that you do not need to
journey too far offshore; many of the
wrecks lie within convenient easy reach.
Unlike
many other parts of the country were
wrecks have almost been picked clean
of artefacts by sport divers, these
wrecks seem to enjoy more respect. The
short season too, will account for reduced
wreck attrition as divers’ only
real chance of thoroughly exploring
these former vessels is between April
and August. There are some occasional
settled periods outside the main season
but nothing that can be guaranteed.
Other
considerations are heavy and prolonged
rainfall. This has a big effect on reducing
underwater visibility, as the mainland
feeds the River Tyne with water-borne
sediment and delivers it in suspension
into the North Sea. Thankfully on our
visits in the summer months and during
more settled periods, the diving has
yielded visibility in excess of 6 metres
and on occasions beyond 10 metres.
With
a good weather forecast we were up for
diving some of the most interesting
wrecks to be found in the region and
our first trip would be to the Dolphin.
The Dolphin (ex HMS Pandora) 1914 situated
at N 55 06 085 W 00 12 72 82 one and
a half miles SSE of Blyth. She was a
submarine depot repair and supply steamship
originally built to order by Sir Raylton
Dixon & Co at the Cleveland Dockyard,
Middlesborough, for James Moss &
Co of Liverpool. Originally intended
in 1902 for Egyptian trade, she was
built to the highest specification.
Weighing in at 3,700 tons, her steel
decks were topped with wood. These included
exotic Hungarian Ash that was used for
elaborate panelling that extended to
the ceiling.
The
whole vessel was equipped with electric
lights, electric bells and steam heating.
Additional specification included a
freshwater condenser, five watertight
bulkheads, water ballast, as well as
steam winches to aid the rapid unloading
of cargo.
Power
came from a three-cylinder triple expansion
steam engine, supplied by three boilers
developing 2200 horsepower and driving
a single screw. On November 9, 1914,
she was purchased by the Royal Navy
and was initially HMS Pandora and was
later changed to HMS Dolphin on October
3 1924. They say that it is unlucky
to change a ships name and the Pandora
had suffered this fate not once but
twice. However she rode her luck and
it seemed she had lived out her working
career when she met her fate as an elderly
ship on the way to being decommissioned.
She
had been selected as a block ship for
the River Clyde and was under-tow, from
Blythe, when she detonated a German
laid mine on 23 November 1939. Now resting
at a general depth of 18 metres, she
is well dispersed and broken; and already
professionally salvaged.
Diving
the Pandora began for us at the bow
section where it rises 7 metres from
the sandy seabed at 23 metres. Shoals
of pout whiting circulated dreamily,
seemingly oblivious to our presence.
We passed a torch beam through the interior,
which disturbed the shoaling fish, as
they suddenly changed course, helping
us to realise how easily they could
be spooked. We were starting to enjoy
the benefit of good underwater visibility,
fixing our eyes on the next area of
interest, 7 metres seemed good, but
we were told later that fifteen metres
is not unheard of during periods of
dry calm weather.
Other
areas of the wreck were more of a rummage
as the sections presented themselves
in tortured twisted forms, requiring
a good deal of knowledge to work out
their original function. However as
with many of the wrecks of this coast,
the Pandora lies in relatively shallow
water so there isn’t any need
to hurry; you can take your time and
work out what you’re looking at
…sometimes!
The
remains of the propshaft extended away
before us almost apparent for its entire
length and the large variety of marine
life maintained a hard to ignore presence.
Our eyes were drawn to a very large
solitary white plumose anemone, its
presence all the more startling for
being surrounded by so much seemingly
inhospitable metal debris.
Our
surface interval was spent on a sandy
beach in Tynemouth, air cylinders are
swapped over and a return to sea quickly
ensues as we steamed out to our next
dive - the Mars.
The
Mars sank on 20th December 1939 at position
N 55 03 819 W 00 1 24 192, situated
one mile east of Blyth. The Mars was
a steel 1877-ton Swedish steamship,
registered in Stockholm with dimensions
80.97m length by 12.85m beam and 5.38m
draught. She was built as the IDA by
Bergen Mek Vaerks, Bergen in 1924 and
owned at the time of loss by Reden A/B
Iris. Her single steel screw propeller
was powered by a three-cylinder triple
expansion steam engine and developed
162 hp. The Mars had two boilers and
one deck.
On
20th December 1939 the Mars was on a
passage from Kopmanholmen for London
with a cargo of rough wood pulp, when
she detonated a German laid mine. After
the explosions the vessel sank almost
immediately taking with her all seven
crew.
Diving
the Mars was an eerie, almost ghostly
experience. Following the outline of
the wreck along the seabed was a haphazard
affair with its crumpled hull occasionally
appearing from the sand. She lies in
an east/northeast to west/southwest
direction and is a substantial wreck.
The massive ship’s boilers were
easily recognised, piercing the gloom
like giant globes. Looking up into the
mid water region presented a warm green
glow which modulated in brightness as
the sun was blotted out by frequent
clouds. Nearby stood the remains of
her two-cylinder steam engine and brass
condenser - lengths of copper pipe,
bronze valves, hollow masts and cogwheels
littering the seabed.
Once
again this was a wreck teeming with
marine life, with an extraordinary profusion
of scotch haddock, complete with stripy
silver and brown scales, they filtered
through the wreck, occupying every empty
cavity, their bodies glinting in the
torchlight as they constantly manoeuvred.
The scene was more reminiscent of a
fish farm pen than a wreck dive.
Moving
our attention back to the wreck itself
and the small groups of deadmens- fingers
added a hint of softness to an otherwise
machinery strewn debris field. The Mars
is an interesting dive and spread over
a large area (90mx30m). With shifting
sands, new finds and new challenges
in orientation await each visiting diver.
Our
final dive was on the wreck of the Eston
that sank around the 28th January 1940
at position 55.03.475 W 001.24.646 one
mile east of Whitely Bay. The Eston
was a steel 1,487 ton British steamship
with hull dimensions 73.15m length by
10.97m beam and a draught of 4.80m.
She was built by the Goole Ship Building
and Repairing Co Ltd at Goole in 1919
and owned at the time of loss by the
Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation
Co. She was powered by a single steel
propeller and a triple expansion 3-cylinder
engine that achieved 172hp. The Eston
had two boilers and her cruising speed
was around 11 knots. Earles of Hull
had equipped the vessel with its machinery.
She
left Hull on 26th January 1940 on passage
for Blyth in Northumberland, two days
later she was sighted at sea near too
her destination, but then she just disappeared.
Several days passed and a man’s
body and one of the ship’s boats
were found washed ashore near Tynemouth.
It is believed the Eston hit an enemy
mine and sank, although no positive
proof is available. The Eston was identified
in 1978, when divers recovered the ship’s
bell from the bow section.
The
Eston stands at its tallest at about
4m high. Her substantial construction
has over the last decade especially
been compromised by the action of the
elements. Today, she lies in three sections;
the bows to the north, whilst the engine
and boilers lie 50m to the south. A
further distance of about 60 metres
to the southwest finds the stern.
Diving
the Eston started with the shot line
leading to the midships part of the
vessel at 24 metres. At first the wreck
seemed completely featureless, even
with visibility at 6 metres, however
after a few fin strokes a structure
started to take shape as we reached
the wheelhouse.
Once
again the marine life was teeming inside
the wreck, large eyes and silver scales
flashed back and forth into our torch
beams. Shifting our focus from the fish
life to the wreck itself, it still retained
much of its form, although more akin
to an exploded diagram than a sea going
vessel. It formed an interesting junction
of rusting geometry; some sections had
completely yielded to the sea, whilst
others stubbornly refused to be rubbed
out by the action of tide and time.
Spikes stood menacingly in the least
expected corners, ready to impale the
unwary.
On
the outside of the former accommodation,
a short distance nearby lay the remains
of the vessel’s former bow, broken
clean away from the vessel. It still
defiantly clung on to a length of iron
anchor chain, which trailed over the
rocky seabed. The energy that had been
exerted to rip this apart was something
to marvel at.
Very
much like the dive on the Mars, which
had been completed earlier on the same
day, the changing light had a lot to
do with how the wreck appeared. In the
gloom, sinister and menacing, but with
the muted rays passing through the columns
of deadmens fingers, ethereal and serene;
a remarkable dive and a must for anyone
visiting the Newcastle region.
Diving
the Tynemouth region of Newcastle upon
Tyne is unreservedly superb and an absolute
revelation to any visitor. There are
of course a few things to be aware of;
the area is exposed to easterly winds
that can create stormy conditions, the
tides like many parts of the UK are
brisk and can cause underwater visibility
to drop, a torch is essential. Nets
too are a concern as these can tangle
in the wrecks. Salmon nets are cast
and left to drift in the tide during
summer months. The stinging cells from
Lions Mane jellyfish are a concern especially
during July and August. Care should
be taken when touching shot lines, as
their stinging tentacles often become
lodged in these.
Take the advice of the local divers,
pay attention to your hosts and their
local knowledge and you will have an
undoubtedly brilliant wreck diving trip
and the only question that will be left
reverberating in anyone’s head
is “how has it been kept a secret
for so long?”